Ph.D. Student in History for the MITI TEXTILPerf Project (M/F)

Job Description

Thesis Subject

Subject: Hybrid Materials and New Opportunities in the Textile Industry at the Turn of the 19th and 20th Centuries: Textilose and Other Artificial Fibers

Research Objectives:
The doctoral contract titled “Hybrid Materials and New Opportunities in the Textile Industry at the Turn of the 19th and 20th Centuries: Textilose and Other Artificial Fibers” will focus on the emergence of cellulosic textile fibers in France and Europe (Germany, England). The aim is to shed light on the socio-technical drivers of the invention and the conditions for the dissemination of these innovative textiles in the context of expanding markets and consumption patterns accompanying industrialization. The increasing artificialization of fibers responds as much to new social expectations or situations of scarcity as it does to the possibilities of what is called the “technical environment,” linked both to the development of modern chemistry and to the new institutional framework governing innovation (patent policy); Less studied than natural fibers (cotton, silk) or synthetic fibers derived from petrochemicals in the 20th century, these cellulosic fibers constituted a particularly innovative field at the time. Drawing on the paradigmatic case of “textilose”—a production sector now largely forgotten—this dissertation will examine how, to meet a critical need for raw materials, the textile industry began overhauling its supply model in the second half of the 19th century, employing several identified strategies: 1) Extracting the pure fiber: cellulose, the all-purpose material. 2) Substituting to fill the gap: local perspectives and colonial cultures. 3) Recycling. From waste to blend—silk schappe, reborn wool. She will therefore focus on the emergence and structuring of laboratory research, industrial strategies, and their intertwining with the state and society through a prosopography of these actors at the intersection of technical education, educational publishing (technical journals, vocational or commercial schools), and production. This research supports the MITI TEXTILPerf project, “High-Performance” Textiles: From Innovation to Recycling. Social Issues and New Materials: 18th–21st Centuries is part of a collaborative dialogue between the social sciences (historians, anthropologists), chemistry, and heritage professionals (conservation-restoration). It will contribute, on the one hand, using archives and collections, to the creation of a new heritage sample book of these hybrid materials —the basis for a textile “reference framework” unprecedented to date—but also, on the other hand, to reconstruct manufacturing processes (reconstruction methodology) in connection with current research on the chemical recyclability of textile waste (depolymerization), which has become a major global and environmental issue.

Scientific Activities:
• The research will be based on the identification and collection of samples, archives, patents, and printed sources from the press and advertising found in public collections in France and across Europe, as well as within companies in the industry. • This will involve cataloging, collecting, and analyzing samples identified in heritage collections from public or private textile collections—Musée des Arts & Métiers, Musée des Tissus de Lyon, V&A, Kew Gardens (London), Germany; • Conduct the relevant technical analyses: the chemical composition of these textiles (nature of the cellulose fibers, additives) is often poorly understood and misidentified • Promote the research results within and beyond the TEXTILPerf project with other partners (physical chemistry, anthropology)

Qualifications:
• This position is open to candidates who hold a Master's degree (M2) in history, history of science and technology, or a multidisciplinary field (such as historical anthropology or sociology) by the contract start date. • Knowledge of the history of industrialization (1800–mid-20th century), the history of innovation, and/or chemistry and materials science is preferred. An interest in interdisciplinary work, particularly between the social sciences and humanities and chemistry, is essential. • Strong research skills in archival collections are required; familiarity with heritage collections is desirable. • The researcher must have a good understanding of textile fibers and textile manufacturing techniques: experience with methods of technical analysis of historical textiles and/or the practice of weaving is recommended. • The candidate must be able to work independently as well as in a collaborative, interdisciplinary environment, and be motivated to complete a dissertation in the social sciences. • Fluency in French is required, as are skills in scientific English; knowledge of German would be a plus.

Your Work Environment

The researcher will work under the supervision of the MITI TEXTILPerf project coordinator at the Alexandre-Koyré Center (UMR 8560 EHESS, CNRS, MNHN), where they will be provided with a workspace, a computer, and access to the scientific community and shared facilities at the Condorcet Campus. There, they will find a suitable environment, recognized expertise in the history of chemistry and practical knowledge, and the global history of techniques and inventive processes. They will also work closely with Nathan Ferrandin-Schoffel, a chemist at the Paris Institute of Molecular Chemistry (IPCM, Sorbonne University, co-principal investigator) as well as other team members, including curators and conservators. The MITI TEXTILPerf brings together an interdisciplinary team drawing on history, social anthropology, physical and biochemical sciences, and conservation sciences.

Compensation and benefits

Compensation

2300 € gross monthly

Annual leave and RTT

44 jours

Remote Working practice and compensation

Pratique et indemnisation du TT

Transport

Prise en charge à 75% du coût et forfait mobilité durable jusqu’à 300€

About the offer

About the CNRS

The CNRS is a major player in fundamental research on a global scale. The CNRS is the only French organization active in all scientific fields. Its unique position as a multi-specialist allows it to bring together different disciplines to address the most important challenges of the contemporary world, in connection with the actors of change.

CNRS

The research professions